Posts Tagged ‘Karl Lagerfeld’

Cholé, Chanel, Fendi—they all sound familiar right? What about Karl Lagerfeld?  Due to his low profile, many outside the fashion world have no idea that this is the man behind the most iconic brands.

In an industry that tosses around the word ‘iconic’, this man is genuinely a fashion icon.  The infamy of his dark les sunglasses and his mantras like, “Vanity is the healthiest thing in life” perpetuate his mysterious persona.  However, this mystery is what produces fashion phenomenon.

Recently on May 14, Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel resort collection for 2013 was shown in the gardens and blazing sun of Versailles.  As the sun set the show began enchanting guests the atmosphere was modern day edgy princess.  Sounds a little weird, but Chanel is the epitome of (wealthy) bad girl chic.  Even with an eighteenth century Marie Antoinette feeling to his line, there was still a little bit of edge to cut through the cake.

Models strutted out in platforms and black or candy colored wigs.  The line was a mix of tiny pastel pannier dresses, golden eighteenth century jackets, and revamped denim and shorts.  But clearly the message was voluminous bottoms.  Short dresses, full skirts and trousers all had structuring that widened the hip.

This resort line is only one of six ready-to-wear lines that he designs for Chanel.  He told WWD, “nothing is more boring than a shop where you have the same thing for six months”.

In addition to seven labels, Lagerfeld now is pursuing the online retail realm.  His luxury fashion designer website, www.netaporter.com recently launched which carries high end designers like Burberry, Christian Louboutin, Gucci, Miu Miu and YSL.

-Sara Freund

Every year, Pirelli marks the New Year by publishing a calendar. Traditionally, these types of gigs use “men’s models,” sort of like soft core porn you can call art. What distinguishes the Pirelli Calendar is its inclination to use high fashion models and famous fashion photographers. Maybe it’s a way to appeal to a different clientele or just to create a high fashion nude. Either way, it’s always a big deal this time of year, especially last year when Karl Lagerfeld took the famous photographs.

Well, it’s that time of year again and the first glimpses of the pictures have come out. Mario Sorrenti shot them this year, and the variety of models is a bit disappointing. They seem to all look a bit similar and some seem out of place. Also, many of the poses come off as uninspired. I know Kate Moss is a legend and can do pretty much whatever she pleases, but her appearance among this group of models is a bit strange considering they all represent a different generation. Not to say that age should keep her out of the calendar, but she just comes off as the odd one out, even though she looks gorgeous. And don’t get me started on the choice to put Mila Jovovich in.

And, as always, when you put a group of nude models together, a standout always emerges. This time is no exception. Joan Smalls’ appearance in the 2012 Pirelli calendar solidifies her place amongst the very top at the moment. She looks unbelievable in these pictures and outshines the rest, even though Lara Stone comes in a close second. I’m a bit obsessed with these photos of her.

-Nadjma Sako

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Fashion is often criticized for its lack of diversitywhether it be on the runways or off. That reputation is well-earned when considering the absence of people of non-European descent in the industry. Models are often an easy way to gauge race representation simply because the backgrounds and origins of the models are known and it is easily quantitative.

Considering the end of the year is approaching, every industry attempts to quantify its successes, failures and advances. In fashion, those lists consider the best looks of the year, the most notable moments, the best and worst trends, emerging talents and controversies. Recently, while stumbling upon one of these lists on Fashionista, the topic was diversity among Vogue cover models.

According to the site, “22 percent of Vogue cover subjects were non-white,” which only points to the fact that the other 78 percent were occupied by white models. And it gets worse: amongst the 22 percent, the majority were of non-European or American Vogue editions. Therefore, most non-white cover models were featured on their country’s editions of Vogue (India, China, Taiwan, etc.). Great.

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Since the beginning of his career, Kanye has made it a point to showcase a discourse of style through his personal appearances and music videos. Since 2008, he has made one of the most legitimate celebrity entrances into the fashion arena.

The most common error celebrities commit when considering a design career is the desire for another hyphen (e.g. actor-singer-fashion designer). They propagate the misconception that fashion is not a career that demands study and a particular skill set, not an industry full of vapid shallow individuals.

Kanye’s first formal step was to intern at Fendi under the tutelage of Karl Lagerfeld, which is obviously not where most begin, but definitely an incredible opportunity. From there, began his collaborations with Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. Eventually, he released his popular sneaker, the Air Yeezy.

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Karl Lagerfeld’s much anticipated line for Macy’s is now set to debut in over 200 stores this week. After his public complaints against his line for H&M in regard to designing for larger sizes, I expect his line to be much more accessible. His clothes will likely have his signature Rock ‘n’ Roll edge, but will be a little more forgiving in their shapes and sizes.

The first dress premiered in the September issue of Vogue, and it’s a promising silhouette. The knee length dress will be flattering on most figures and the dark hues of the dress add to that Rock ‘n’ Roll edge Lagerfeld is known for. I am eager to pop into a local Macy’s and be able to see the rest of the collection. I think it will be a step up from his last attempt at mass-market designs.

-Victoria Troxler

Since the debut of Haider Ackermann’s self-titled line in 2001, the designer has made quite the impact on the fashion world. He famously used to clean toilets and is now one of the most regarded designers of our time. If you haven’t heard of him, don’t be ashamed. Ackermann avoids press, and isn’t exactly mainstream.

His precise draping and avant-garde aesthetic is simply unique. In the past year, Ackermann’s line transformed him into the designer of the moment. His Fall 2011 line was wildly noted as brilliant; both Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld sent him flowers to congratulate him.  The line was filled with draped leather jackets, impeccably hemmed trousers and extreme hair and makeup. His jackets often seem impossible to put on, but Ackermann specifically twists and manipulates his clothing to create this allusion. Some say his line is too narrow, but I praise his ability to master a single silhouette.

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Hedi Slimane is one of the most respected and honored designers of the 21st century. He single-handedly changed male standards of beauty and dress. Slimane was head designer at Dior Homme from 2000 to 2007 where he brought in the new aesthetic of slim, perfectly tailored suits and skinny ties.

Before Slimane, the male model was buff and muscular. By definition, models were expected to be good looking, but the term got redefinined in the last few decades. Pretty boys no longer get all the attention; instead, skinny, pale and often androgynous looking men have become the new preferred look. Also, to fit into the new Dior Homme aesthetic, men had to be skinny instead of buff.

This new trend of skinny and extra slim guys brought forth new issues like manorexia. However unfortunate some of the consequences for those not blessed with a naturally slim figure, Slimane’s man became the new sexy.

Menswear is one of the most stagnant arenas in fashion; to effect a true change in the general way men dress is a seismic achievement. And he did just that.

The skinny jean trend, the skinny ties, the unfussy but composed appearance that many guys adapted all come from Hedi’s work at Dior. For that, he is unconditionally respected and venerated. In 2007, at the peak of his design career, he walked away from Dior Homme. Now, in 2011, people still await his return to design. He is that good. (more…)