For me it’s not the plummeting temperatures, the leaves crunching underfoot, or the smell of apple cider that truly heralds fall’s arrival. As much as I love the leaves and the bulky sweaters, it’s the change in my appetite I rely on most to tell me the season’s at hand.
The other night, with salad greens wilting in the back of my fridge and mealy overdue peaches shrivelling on my counter, it hit me. Fall was here. The shift in my cravings from salads to stews, peppers to squash, and basil to cinnamon reminded me that the season of comfort food follows closely on the heels of September.
I’ve been told repeatedly that Eva’s, a Polish restaurant in Solvay, was the place for comfort food—best appreciated with a side of chilly. They were right. The gust of grandma’s kitchen warmth that hit me upon entering just wouldn’t have been the same in the middle of July.
Eva’s is a doll house, snuggled into a row of shops with Solvay’s industrial smoke stacks puffing away in the background. And this was no Americanized ethnic. I felt like I was in Eastern Europe again, from the stencilling on the walls to the red and blue mood lighting to the waitress’s patterned stockings. The atmosphere is cozy enough to dress up and take a date, but also possesses a homeyness that attracts families and older couples.
With entrees ranging from $6-$12, Eva’s is worth the five bucks in gas you’ll spend getting there. Plus, I don’t know any other place where you can get a slice of homemade dessert for $3.75. If that’s not enough, beer-lovers will go crazy over their list of imported Polish, German, and Latvian beers, unrivalled the city over. They bring it in by truckloads straight from a Manhattan-based importer, offering a clear menu description for each.
On my first visit of what I hope will be many, I shared a sweet and nutty salad of freshly shredded leek, apples and carrots mixed in a creamy dressing. For the main course it was twelve potato and mushroom pierogi, piled on a plate with sautéed onions, butter and sour cream. Having grown up on my Ukrainian great-grandmother’s homemade pierogi (pur-oh-gee), the little stuffed dumplings touched something in me besides hunger.
I can’t wait to return for their potato and cheese version to see if they’ve got anything on hers. Not to mention to try the cabbage rolls and Hunter’s stew. Eva’s delightful kitsch and simple, warming fare makes those inevitable December days suddenly seem less ominous. Surprisingly, I found myself craving another change in seasons—but not quite just yet.
Eva’s
1305 Milton Avenue
Syracuse, NY
13204
(315) 487-2722
~ Jennifer Ward
www.freshcrackedpepper.com




